This method uses a paper foundation. The ‘without pain’ part is that there is no tedious unpicking of the paper after you have completed the block because you do not sew through the paper.
For the tutorial, I have made an over-sized block in highly contrasting fabrics. The method will work for any system of paper foundation patterns. The key to success is the careful folding of the paper foundation and sewing very closely to the fold.
Select your block. Using a fine pen or pencil, very accurately draw your full-sized block onto paper. Decide the order you will construct the block. Or you may use a printed block from a book or the internet.
Crease every stitching line on your paper foundation. Take care to follow your drawn stitching lines. The paper should be creased firmly so that it will fold easily and exactly (if possible) on the stitching line.
Cut your fabric pieces. I make mine a little bigger than if I were piecing without a foundation. With, say 1/2″ seam instead of 1/4″.
Place your first fabric piece into place and pin using at least three pins.
Place your second fabric piece in the corresponding position on the pattern ready to sew. Pin through all layers of fabric and paper.
Fold your paper foundation under the fabric.
Sew the seam line as close as possible to the folded sewing line but not into the paper. It won’t matter if a stitch or two goes into the paper.
Unfold and finger press the pieces in place.
Pin piece 2 onto the paper foundation using at least two pins.
Position piece 3 for sewing.
Fold your paper foundation under the fabric. Stitch the seam line as close as possible to the folded sewing line. Unfold and finger press into place. Pin with at least two pins.
Position piece 4 ready to sew.
Fold the paper foundation under the fabric.
Stitch and finger press open.
If necessary or preferred, you may trim the seams after stitching to 1/4″. Take great care not to cut through your block.
Continue in this way for pieces 5 to 9, making sure you pin each piece securely on to the paper foundation after stitching.
Attach pieces 10 and 11 in the same manner.
Remove the pins.
The finished block separated from the paper foundation, ready to be trimmed to exact size. As you can see, no painful removing the paper from the stitching, and (bonus) your paper foundation is ready to be used again.
And just look at those beautiful points!
NOTE: Unlike standard foundation piecing where you sew through your fabric and the paper, there is no stitching holding your block in place. The secure pinning is necessary so that your fabric does not shift from its proper place on the paper foundation. Don’t be tempted to remove some of the pins as you go. Your block will flex and shift. The final result will be inaccurate and disappointing.
Meg, this technique is very interesting, I’m going to give it a try! I can see why pinning is key to keeping seams and fabric straight. Thanks for sharing this…I need to do more paper piecing as there are so many fun patterns out there!
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This tutorial is my first proper go at it. I wish I had known it earlier when I completed a square-within-a-square quilt. I’m quite keen to have a go at a skew log cabin quilt now.
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Thanks Meg for sharing this technique and tutorial. I shall give it a try and add it to my growing list of things to experiment with. Still finishing off the pieces I started at AQC! If only I had more time.
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This is the same method as using freezer paper for foundation piecing, isn’t it, Meg? I haven’t tried either, yet. I should. I love, love, love foundation piecing, but no one likes picking out the bits.
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Yes, I think it must be the same as the freezer paper method – which I did not know about. I showed it at CQG on Friday, and Nat was there and said “freezer paper”. I must give it a go.
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